Sewing Solutions Montclair NJ

Many of today's skirt and pant patterns have a wide contoured waistband. If the seam allowance is turned under to finish the band on the inside, it can create bulk over the tummy. Read on for more information.

Michael's Arts Crafts
(973) 887-3024
410 State Route 10
East Hanover, NJ
 
Michael's Arts Crafts
(973) 299-8544
3053 Ushighway 46
Parsippany, NJ
 
Kathryn Markel Fine Arts
(212) 366-5368
529 West 20th, Suite 6W
New York, NY
Hours
T-Sat 10-6pm; M-F 10-6pm (June-Aug)

Frank Rogin, Inc. 20th Century Antiques
(212) 431-6545
21 Mercer Street, 5th floor
New York, NY
Hours
Monday through Friday, 12:00-6:00

Notus, Inc.
(212) 334-0291
184 Duane St
New York, NY
Hours
Mon-Fri 11-7 Sat 12-5

Michael's Arts Crafts
(201) 967-5534
365 North State Route 17
Paramus, NJ
 
Lars Bolander N.Y. Inc. Antiques
(212) 924-1000
72 Gansevoort Street
New York, NY
Hours
10am to 6pm Monday through Saturday

Miguel Saco Gallery - 20th Century Arts
(212) 777-5460
37 East 18th Street
New York, NY
Hours
Monday-Friday 9:00-5:00, or by appointment

Bogdan Gallery Antiques
40 West 25th St.
New York, NY
 
Paul Stamati Gallery
(212) 754-4533
1050 2nd Av
New York, NY
Hours
6-Nov

Sewing Solutions

Waistline Wonders

Many of today's skirt and pant patterns have a wide contoured waistband. If the seam allowance is turned under to finish the band on the inside, it can create bulk over the tummy. Instead of turning under the facing seam allowance, trim 1/4∗ from the facing lower edge. Use a bias strip of lightweight fabric to create a Hong Kong along the long edge. Press the facing seam allowance down toward the pant body. From the pant front, anchor the facing in place by stitching in the seam well. If the seam is too bulky, topstitch 1/4∗ from the seam to flatten.

Washable Wool

Wool gabardine can be washed by machine in cold water on the gentle cycle. Toss the washed fabric in the dryer with low or no heat, just long enough to spin the water out of it. Air dry and press using steam.

Stretchy Stripes

Striped knit fabrics are great for creating fun and unique garments--especially when you shift fabric to the bias or change the strip direction on a particular portion of the garment, such as the sleeves or collar. Choose a striped fabric with four-way stretch for this technique. Otherwise, the greatest stretch of the fabric won't be around the body and the garment will feel too tight.

Hem it Up

Sometimes it's difficult to prevent the hand stitching on hems from showing on the fabric right side. For a truly invisible hem, cut a bias strip of lightweight interfacing that's 1/2∗ wider than the hem allowance. If you're making a jacket, narrow pant or straight skirt, use a strip of fusible wiggam or a mediumweight bias interfacing. Fuse the interfacing above the hem allowance, with one edge on the hem crease. Attach hand stitches to the interfacing instead of the fashion fabric.

Pressing Matters

It's easy to burn, spot or discolor fabric when pressing. To avoid these problems, make a habit of always using a press cloth when pressing the fabric right side. This protects the fabric from an iron that spits. The press cloth also prevents the fabric from burning or melting when the iron temperature is set too high.

Back to Back

There are many reasons why your clothing might be too tight across the back. Maybe you've started an exercise program and are building new muscles or maybe you've gained weight and it's settling in the back. Perhaps you spend a lot of time hovering over a desk, computer or sewing machine. You probably don't need to change the size of the pattern you're using, but you do need to make the back wider. On the back pattern piece, draw a line from the shoulder to the lower edge. Cut the pattern apart and add 1/4∗ to 3/8∗ along each cut edge (1). Reattach the two pieces. Since the back shoulder is now wider than the front, add a dart or an easeline on the back shoulder. If the pattern has back princess seams, add 1/4∗ to 3/8∗ to each princess seam side, beginning 1∗ down from the shoulder.

Woven to Knit

If you have a great woven pattern that you wa...

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